Checking in at Munich’s classic address

By Issy von Simson

January 28, 2025

With its 25th anniversary on the horizon, Mandarin Oriental, Munich still has its finger firmly on the pulse of the Bavarian capital.

Interior shot of Mural Bar in Munich and a bike used to transport bottles of wine.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

The pristine city of Munich has completely evolved since Mandarin Oriental took over the old Raphael hotel in 2000. While still full of old-school character, there is a fresh contemporary edge to the Bavarian capital. Alongside the cultural rhythms of the opera and the ballet at the Nationaltheater, the historic and architectural drama of the Residenz and, of course, Marienplatz and the glossy thrum of the Maximilianstraße, there are new players on the stage. Joining the traditional bierkellers – the legendary and lively Hofbräuhaus is just round the corner from the hotel – and the classic swagger of Schumann's Tagesbar or Bar Centrale, an energised breed of future-facing natural wine bars such as Bar Mural and Blaue Libelle are popping up. And they are joined by hipster bistros including Bingo and Blitz, finding their way on to the foodie landscape amidst the pretzels and spätzle and schnitzel. Mandarin Oriental, Munich follows this path, too, cleverly combining tradition with all the finger-clicking modern elements.

Four chefs working at Matsuhisa restaurant in Mandarin Oriental, Munich.

FEASTING AND DRINKING

The hotel becomes a buzzy hive of activity on Friday and Saturday nights, the result of locals flocking to Matsuhisa Munich for the Nobu chef’s famed black cod and the rest of his Japanese-Peruvian menu. Up on the first floor above the lobby, the restaurant is a curving space of reflective bronze and golds, dark wood and coffee-coloured leather, like a 1970s spaceship. As it gets dark, the whole place glows. The scene is a mix of big tables, with friends and families gathering, as well as travellers. Solo diners make a beeline for the eight-seater omakase counter for front-row views of yellowtail sashimi being carved by sushi masters. Down the sweeping central staircase is the low-lit glitzy cocktail bar Ory, where the ambitious mixology means cream cheese-infused Campari or homemade birch sap syrup over rye. In the summer, the action moves to the rooftop Munich Sushi Club with its sun-trap swimming pool and 360° rooftop views of the Frauenkirche, the Neues Rathaus and, on a clear day, the snow-capped Alps.

Artwork on display at Mandarin Oriental, Munich.

UPSTAIRS

There’s something immediately cosseting about walking into the monochrome, marble-tiled bathrooms and feeling the heated floors beneath bare feet. As with everything else in the 48 bedrooms and 25 suites here, it talks to comfort and to the uncomplicated luxury of the place. The look throughout is pared back but opulent, a palette of pale greys and creams punctuated by paintings by Munich-based artist Felix Rehfeld. Each room features a unique work from his 100 Mountains series, depicting the peaks of the Bavarian Alps (just an hour away from the city), as well as the big guns, such as Switzerland’s iconic Matterhorn. The Tower Suite and The Bavaria Suite are both in the turret of the hotel, the former using the space for its sitting room, and the latter for a rather fairytale-like circular bedroom with five windows scooping round the bed. And while there might be slightly lower ceilings and cosy dormer windows on the top floors, it’s from up here that you get the best skyline views.

A pastry and the chef Lea Zapf at Viktualienmarkt in Munich.

WHAT TO DO

The front desk staff are brilliantly up to speed with the current happenings around town. One of the most fun ways for an immediate Munich immersion is to head for the Viktualienmarkt, the former farmers’ market in the centre of the Old Town. This is the foodie beating heart of the city, selling everything from the best pickles and sausages to oysters, with Aperol spritzes and beer to wash them down. And it’s the young food producers who are doing the most interesting things. At the yellow- and white-striped Caspar Plautz stand, the humble potato is elevated to an epicurean delight. Master pâtissiere Lea Zapf prepares exquisite tarts as well as wild grilled kimchi and cheese brioche. The three young cheesemakers of Münchner Käse Manufaktur, Franz, Johannes and Sebastian, champion the use of local ingredients and regional milk in their craft. And at new Hungarian stall, Szia Szia, there is paprika-fiery gulaschsuppe mopped up with deep-fried lángos flatbread.

Insider MO tip

If the Viktualienmarkt feasting has nudged you off track, the wellness partnerships at Mandarin Oriental, Munich are a great way to rebalance, with detoxifying drinks from Rootine, a running club for laps of the Englischer Garten and rooftop barre classes in the warmer months.

About the Author

Issy von Simson

Formerly the Editor-in-Chief of Loupe and Editor of Condé Nast Traveller, Issy writes for T+L, The Times, The Telegraph, BOAT and ES magazine and is the author of Secret Stays, published by Assouline.