Paris Revival

Recently reopened after a year-long renovation, the Musée Jacquemart-André is a time-capsule treasure. Designed in the 19th century during Haussmann’s Paris Plan, the architectural wizardry of the double helix staircase and a ballroom with collapsable walls to accommodate up to 1,000 guests was groundbreaking then and continues to impress now. The salons and apartments are exquisite, each filled with paintings, sculptures and porcelain treasures meticulously collected by banking heir Edouard André and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart, during their lives. The reopening exhibition features 40 masterpieces from the Borghese Gallery in Rome, including Bernini bronzes and oils by the 16th- and 17th-century Italian big hitters Botticelli, Caravaggio, Titian and Raphael. This is a rare chance to see these artworks outside Italy, and the exhibition is a glorious add-on to the permanent collection.

In the know: From 21 September to 17 December 2024, the museum is hosting a ‘travelling’ opera adaptation of Verdi’s La traviata on selected evenings. During the interval, guests can tour the museum’s prestigious permanent collection, Champagne in hand.

Photo credit – Culturespaces / Sophie Lloyd

At the end of a charming, cobbled lane in the maze of Montmartre is one of Paris’s secret sanctuaries: the Clos Montmartre Vineyard. The vineyard was created in 1933 by residents to prevent overdevelopment in the area, as French law prohibits building on a vineyard. It’s rarely open to the public but during the Fête des Vendanges (the Grape Harvest Festival), from 9-13 October, you can sneak a peek. While the festivities are on, the streets buzz with stalls run by winemakers and artisanal producers from all over France. Enjoy grape stomping, a grand parade, vineyard tours, wine tastings, concerts and a traditional closing dance at Square Louise Michel at the foot of Sacré-Coeur.

In the know: Enter the festival near Place du Tertre to get a souvenir glass and a taste of a Clos vintage before trying wines from other regions and local delicacies including saucisson or snails. You can also book a tour of the vineyard and a wine tasting with the Musée de Montmartre.

While Paris disappoints with its meagre offering of organic food markets, there is one exception: the Marché Biologique Raspail. It has been serving organic produce, roasted chicken, cheese, and pastries every Sunday since 1919. Now 150 stalls strong, it attracts well-heeled customers who flock from the chic sixth and seventh arrondissements to buy from their favourite direct producteur.

In the know: Elbows at the ready as vying for the attention of the vendors can get physical.